Wednesday, July 17, 2013

The Party's over

The party's over

After a week of celebrations, Christmas Island has gone back to work. After a week of watching and waiting we are leaving today.

Monday (Sunday our time) was a hard day for many people here on Christmas, probably through out the Islands of Kiribati. Imagine a week - a whole week of celebrations. Too much of a good thing if you ask me, but the lady at immigration said their next holiday is Christmas in December. So maybe they cram it all in when they can.

The end of the holiday meant it was time for us to get back to work as well. Sunday (Monday here) we spent the day (yes, the whole day) with the process of acquiring fuel. We had already found someone to deliver it - Tobako, so we presented ourselves at his place at 0930. At that point we learned we had to go to KOIL (Kiribatis Oil) and pay first. Off we went. $266 US later we had purchased 200 liters or one 55 gallon drum of diesel. Back to Tobako's, yes he would deliver this morning. In fact Dennis and Doug helped push a truck through the sand on the way to get unleaded gas for the dinghy's (none until the afternoon) and Dennis and I pushed the same truck through more sand on our way back to the dinghy. When we arrived at the boat HooRoo our new friends from Australia were just pulling up anchor to head to the wharf for fuel (they needed 1000 liters). We had told them we would help them, but thought we were imminently going to receive our own fuel, so we sent Josh with them. Four hours later, no fuel for any of us. HooRoo was hanging out at the wharf waiting for the KOIL truck and Moondance and Evergreen were hanging out waiting for our fuel delivery by panga. So, Dennis and Doug went in to check out the problem. Well there were several, starting with KOIL not being willing to fill the Jerry cans at KOIL, only 200l drums, so the truck had to go to Tobako's place. Then just as Dennis and Doug arrived, the KOIL truck was filling the cans with UNLEADED! That would have been catastrophic if they hadn't caught it. Sure enough his paper said "unleaded". Doug was able to show his receipt for diesel, and eventually they got all the jerry cans filled and the panga loaded. In the meantime Carla let HooRoo know to check before they filled, and that the truck was on the way to them. So, at 1600 we received 10 cans of fuel which required funneling into our tanks. Thankfully we used a filter, the fuel itself seemed okay, but the cans were pretty dirty. At 1800 we were finished, the decks washed, Josh returned from HooRoo, cans lined up to be returned. That kind of a day called for a good comforting dinner. Thank goodness my experiment with doing tritip in the pressure cooker tasted good (and oh so tender). Then a move, then heavenly bed!

Yesterday was all about checking out of the country, final provisions (read beer run) , boat prep and stowing. Once again 0900 found us in our dinghies heading to town. I honestly won't miss that dinghy ride. We were loaded with 12 of the 20 jerry jugs from Moondance and Evergreen - not a comfortable ride. We off loaded those at Tobako's place, left some more used oil and trash and set off for C & I (customs and immigration - C & I from now on). Got to customs - you have to pay for the rat inspection - $50. Go to the accounting office (thankfully right next door). With that done and paper in hand we went to Immigration, then back to customs. Just FYI for cruisers behind us, it is a 4 crew list process to check in and out. Or should I say it could be. I don't think anything much is set in stone. After promising to go to KPA (the port authority) to pay our mooring fees, we were done. Rat inspection? what rat inspection? Noone came, we never even saw the quarantine lady, but hey we have a paper that says we don't have rats.

KPA requires a dinghy ride, so we picked up final provisions on our way back to the dinghies - bread, papaya (free - fresh off the tree), butter, evaporated milk for coffee and finally eggs. Yep I sprang for 90 cent each eggs. Hey I have room in the fridge, and we may not see any until Samoa. The gas station had unleaded so the dinghy got a fill up too. Next destination: the boats, then KPA.

Thinking of all that we planned to do yesterday, tipped me over a bit, so we decided (or Dennis humored me more like it) to divide and conquer. Dennis and Josh stayed and cleaned the bottom of the boat and I went with Moondance to KPA and Punja's. After how difficult everything had been, the last two items on our todo list went smooth as silk. KPA took our money fast and efficiently, the walk to Punja's was hot, so we stopped at the rainbow store for water, and scored 6 papayas (free, fresh off the tree). Were not able to finish our beers at Punjas (nice and cold), before they had the beer we had bought loaded in a truck waiting to give us a ride back to the wharf. I was back to the boat in record time I think. Dennis and Josh were still working on the bottom of the boat, so I started the cleaning and stowing process inside. The boys had lunch and took a long rest after the bottom was finished, then decided that the dinghy could stay on the davits for the next leg. The original thought was to deflate it and put it back on the deck. I hope we haven't jinxed ourselves into a rough ride. The decision to leave it on the davits was based on the thought that the next leg is going to be mellower than the last two. Lord knows we deserve a mellow leg, but we will see.

Yesterday was my day to be oriented on Isuzu engine care and feeding.
Here is my checklist:
Water emptied from bottom of engine compartment - check (I already knew how to do that)
Check the coolant level - low needs more, make 50/50, come back -oops is overflowing into the engine compartment. Put on the cap, empty the coolant from the bottom of the engine compartment, fill the reservoir which had filled the radiator and overflowed.
Check the oil - quart low. Fill - done
Check the transmission fluid - full - done
Check the alternator belt - ???? might be okay, but needed recheck by Dennis, and did need to be tightened. Oh the mysteries of alternator belts. Think we got a bad one as it keeps getting loose. Hopefully can replace in American Samoa.

HooRoo (Jim and Jill) left yesterday for Hawaii - fair winds and following seas to them. Loved meeting them. Nice people. They gave Josh a HooRoo Crew t shirt for helping them on Monday. One of the reasons we love this life - the people you meet are consistently interesting, nice and fun. We saw them in town Tuesday morning on our way to C&I, said our goodbyes and they were out of sight by the time we returned to the boats.

So, we will leave here today - this morning sometime, headed for Manihki in the Cook Islands. It is approximately 700 miles, we are thinking 6 days. We will stay there briefly, to rest up and get ready for the next leg to Suwarrow. We will probably stay in Suwarrow for a little bit. Supposedly beautiful with great fishing and wildlife.
Got to get this posted and start my day. No more pictures til Samoa :(.

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Monday, July 15, 2013

Pictures - Fanning Island II

 View of the pass to the north east ish.  taken by Josh when he was up the mast rehanging the radar reflector and checking sails and rigging.
 Hey Rose - how is this for a pizza oven?  I am sure Craig is drooling.......
 More customs and immigration - Dennis and Josh in the background, the police chief in the foreground.
 The rescue of Jean Michael in his wayward dinghy.  What you can't see is the Kwai in the channel behind them.
 The school bus - pretty scary
 The village from the top of the mast
 Tabita and Ti arr a moa (or something close to that) prepaing dinner.  2 kinds of fish - red snapper, bread fruit french fries, rice, poisson cru etc....
 Tabita, Carla and Paul.  Tabita using a tahitian style coconut grater to generated coconut and then coconut milk to use in dinner.  Lots of work...
Check out those teeth!!!  sure tasted good though!

Pictures - Fanning I

 Sorry, not in any particular order - just happy to be able to post.

Evergreen and the KWAI - Fanning Island













 Bruno's place with clockwise from top:  Carol, Josh, Dennis, Mike and Fred
 Bruno with Agnes - Great bike seat huh?
 Gotta love this - solar on thatch
 Doug, Bruno, Agnes and Paul

 Bruno, Tabita, Paul, JoJo and Margery
 Customs, Immigration and quarantine
 seems it is a tradition to have a picture of us all on a road on whatever Island we happen to be on
Evergreen coming through the pass into Fanning Lagoon
 Working on the dinghy engine - Josh really was helping
 Kwai coming in the lagoon.  gives some perspective of how big they are compared to us, but still only 120 ft.  Moondance was in their spot, Carla had the engine fired up to move, but they anchored by us instead.
Fred and Mike on Fred's boat. Hard to see, but there is alot of fish there.  We got two travalle out of it, but there was also wahoo and something else

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Big Island sunset

As promised here is a picture of the awesome sunset on our 2nd or 3rd night out of Oahu.  Most likely caused by the VOG from the big Island.

sorry missed a day, here's the catch up

Independence day-
More culturally interesting experiences yesterday.
Kiritimati - kir is i mas. Ti = s
We had a pretty rough start on the boat - I guess the culmination of Josh's bad mood. Tipped me over - I had to tell him to get over it. Probably surprised him as I don't generally give him too much of a hard time. I guess I was tired of all the whining. "its hard, its hard", yeah well, welcome to cruising - shouldn't be a news flash. Finally Dennis and I went to KPA (kiritimati port authority) internet café to buy some internet time. It is located at the end of the wharf. We dinghied over as there is a very nice dinghy dock on the wharf. We decided to get the KPA because when we put up our wifi antenna, it boosted the signal well enough for us to get it on the boat. It makes homework for Josh easier. Still a pain in the ass according to him, but at least he will be able to make progress in his biology course. Took us a while to get it set up and going and figure out how to turn it on and off. Then Dennis and I went in to check out the festivities. I don't think that Josh didn't want to come as much as he really wanted time away from us. Plus he had homework. We missed the marching - something that actually started on time- it was probably the highlight of the day according to Carla. We heard them beginning around 730 am, but that was way too early. Josh thinks his homework affects only him……
First on our agenda was to find some bread. I am doing my best to put off having to bake my own for as long as possible. We were able to buy some (even on the holiday). $4 for two loaves - Orowheat eat your heart out!! I think they must use a little whole wheat flour, cuz it is not really all that white of bread. Actually we scored ice cream cones first. Nice to have something cold. Amazing how hot is on shore. Felt cool on the boat with the breeze, but shore was hot and muggy.
Independence Day celebrations here are very much a community event. Seemed to us like a big community bbq while watching soccer or whatever other sport was going on. We decided to walk to the water side of the field, hoping it would be a bit cooler. It wasn't really. The field was surrounded by their version of "pop ups" over cement picnic tables. Basically open buildings with corrugated roofs. Some have wood floors, some not. It looked like the family all came for the day, with their sleeping mats, kids, toys etc and bought food from the different vendors. We were standing there watching the game - looking like out of place white people - when a man started talking to us - where you from etc… Turns out Meka (his short name) is the mayor. Wow talk about hospitality! He bought us lunch and beer (even a bud will taste good when it is cold and free). Meka explained about the schools - each village has a primary, the government has one secondary to I think 8th grade and there are two private, church based, senior high schools. He also explained about the soccer teams, talked about his family, and how unused to seeing white people here they are. Tourists come here, but generally to fish and they never leave the hotel they stay at. Meka is a very nice man - he would not let us pay - we laughingly said we would vote for him and tell people to vote for him. Turns out we were eating from Bob's (driver from yesterday afternoon) family's food stand - hence the budweiser beer.
Meka's 14 yr old son was playing in the final we were watching - don't think his team won. When the game ended, Meka left to go rest up for the evening's festivities - a big bbq sponsored by the minister. We have not been going to any of the night activities as coming back to the boats in the dark with the dinghies just seems a bit iffy. By then, we figured we had seen and done all that was to be done and it was time to head back. We brought our food with us - so technically we had carry out for dinner last night! I had hoped to get some of the sweet and sour pork (no breading), but they ran out. I was able to taste it from the pot - man yummy!
Kind of a lazy boat day today. I have done dishes and tidied up, drilled holes in one of our deck boxes - I love power tools! Dennis put in a switch to turn the subwoofer on and off - uses too much power for full time use. We may go in later. The internet we bought yesterday is turned off - can't see it today. So goes the cruising life. Finally get Josh motivated to do his work and the internet craps out. REALLY!!! Is pretty windy again today - supposed to be through the weekend. Hope to be out of here Tuesday (US time). I think we have decided to go to Manihiki. It is only 600 miles and will break up the trip to Suwarrow. I am already thinking of what food to prepare ahead of time for that crossing. May buy a couple cans of corned beef and some potatoes for a stew - that always goes over well. Surprisingly I found no canned beef in HI before we left, or at least none I was willing to buy.

Went over to Hoo Roo this afternoon so Josh could use their internet connection (they have the govt internet). He was able to connect and take some quizzes for biology. I checked my gmail and banking. The Hoo Roo internet cafe is very upscale - served us rice and fish balls - yum. We provided california wine, beer (moondance) and snacks. Hoo Roo is such a nice boat - a catamaran, so lots of space. Thanks very much to them for keeping our student happy. No big plans for tomorrow - is Sunday here, so quiet day in town. If the winds calms down maybe some water time - we will see.

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Thursday, July 11, 2013

All the things your Mother told you not to do

Remember all those things your mother told you not to do and we told/tell our kids what to do??? Well they sure are fun.

We started our day with boat chores and school. I have finally finished washing the linen - YAY! and mother nature even provided a second rinse. For breakfast I used up the last of the local bread and donuts (really just sweeter bread) for French toast. Pretty good. Josh really likes his psychology book - thank god the author has a sense of humor. Dennis assigned some geometry - not so much of a sense of humor there. And Dennis and I ran the newly repaired sound cable for the TV.

On to the fun stuff. We met Moondance in town for our trip to the big box store. We had been told we could just flag down one of the green "buses". We waited a good long time and then decided to hitchhike - sorry Mom, but very safe here. We didn't get far walking before it poured down rain - was cool and refreshing. Caught a ride as soon as the rain stopped with Tom (talking to strangers and hitch hiking) - in the back of his pickup. Much better than any old enclosed bus!!! And he would take us all the way there. We had one stop at a store called "Punjas". Got snacks and a cold beer. It appears Tom (who works at the airport) has opened his own little store in Banana (yes, really the name of a town. I told you those Brits were not a very imaginative lot). The big box store "JML" was closed when we got there at 1400. Seems they are open 08--12 and 16-19. Tom offered to take us into Banana, to his home. When we got to his place, his father in law was preparing a pig for the big celebration tomorrow. Was a little gruesome, but they had killed it and were just finishing up burning off the hair. The hole to cook it was dug up, and by the time we went for a walk and came back it was buried in the cook pit. Tom then took us back to the Captain Cook Hotel (that guy sure got around) where we were hoping to get something cold to drink while we waited for 1600. Sadly that was not to be. The bar - in fact the whole place seemed to be closed today. Reopening tomorrow. The security guy let us hang out in the atrium, so we read our books until 1600, then walked over to the JML store. Well, that was pretty anticlimactic as well. Lots of stuff from costco, but nothing earth shattering and the only beer they carry is Budweiser. Seems the Punja store has the Heineken distributorship, so that would be the place for that. But, at 67 AUS per case - I think we will tough it out. We still have plenty of beer, and lots of crossings to do, so I think we will be okay.

Next up - find a ride back to London. So, we asked the government van - no luck (and not overly nice about it either). The Italian couple came by, but the did not have enough room in their rental car. We asked a man with a pickup at the gas pump, and he said he had about 30 min of work to do, but would pick us up if we still needed a ride. Well, sure enough 30 min later we still needed a ride. So he brought us all the way back to London. This time I rode up front with him and his little girl. His name was Robert - call me Bob. The little girl was Kayla. He is from Christmas, went to school in Scotland (6yrs - lived with his uncles), worked for Norwegian cruise lines for 8 years out of Fanning, and has been back on Christmas for the last 3 years, works for his Dad who owns JML. Kind of incongruous listening to a local person speak english with a scottish accent. The little girl (3 yrs old) was very cute and babbled the whole time. Did I say no car seat??

So, we survived our day of living dangerously. We are very tired, but have spaghetti in our bellies and are getting ready to watch a movie. Life is good. Going to go in tomorrow and watch some of the Independence day festivities. Also need more bread, and may try to get internet from a place that we can pick up from the boat. We'll see. Movie time now.

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Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Boat day

Well, changed our minds and had a boat day today. Josh did school, Dennis worked on route planning and weather and wiring the TV sound, and I did laundry, changed sheets, did dishes, sewed Josh's backpack and finished my book. Oh yeah, had a nap too. Hope I sleep tonight!

We are trying to decide where to go next. Penrhyn (Cook Islands) is close, but expensive to check in and out. Manihiki is on the way to Suwarrow, but we are unsure if you can check in there or not - conflicting information. Suwarrow is 960 miles, and sets us up for due west run to Samoa. So, we are pretty sure we are going there, just haven't decided if we will make a stop along the way. I am leaning towards going straight to Suwarrow. Lots of reasons, laziness and the unwillingness to deal with all the check in hassles of the Cook Islands are two big ones, but am anxious to get to Fiji. So far, although everything is pretty, it hasn't been good for being in the water, or hanging out on the beach, or snorkeling etc. Suwarrow is a preserve - no customs/immigration per se - $50 fee to anchor. There are 2 caretakers that live there 6 months out of the year. The reef is healthy (read - there are sharks), so spear fishing, beach combing and snorkeling are reportedly beautiful. Ah decisions, decisions.

So yeah laundry - linen more precisely and towels - YUCK! I sure hate doing that stuff by hand. Do you know that an old fashioned wringer is about $120? After today, that doesn't sound so expensive. Has to be done, but uses up a lot of water, don't know why I get so freaked out about that - we will make more. Just feels wrong sort of. At least things dry fast - the breeze was very nice today - kept it relatively cool too.

Found out why the sound wasn't working on the TV system - cable was cut in half. That would do it. Found that out as we were pulling it. Made problem solving easy - nothing subtle about it. Dennis soldered it back together - it was a hard fought battle, but Dennis won. Stupid thing is back in one piece again. Sure hope we don't have to re run it the way it was - must have cut about a million cable ties (ok, so maybe only 15 but it felt like a million).

Pretty moon tonight - orange sliver with a big bright star by it. Seemed weird that it was setting at 730p - don't know why - just did. The stars out here are amazing - even with the brightly lit fishing/cargo vessels all around (They remind me of car dealerships all lit up - all the time). You can see the milky way, sometimes seems so close you could touch it. And of course the southern cross. Guess we are not in Kansas anymore huh? (do you wonder what my first clue was???? LOL)

So scheduled for our bus ride adventure tomorrow. Wish us luck!

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